Reflections from the Fair Luxury Conference at Goldsmiths' Centre – Why We Need More Voices in the Room

Rebekah Ann
3 days ago
4 min read

© Photographer Julia Skupny, The Goldsmiths' Centre, 2025

On the 9th of June, I had the privilege of speaking on a panel at the Fair Luxury Conference at the Goldsmiths' Centre. As someone who runs a micro business with a deep commitment to transparency, conscious and responsible jewellery making, it felt like a significant moment being invited speak. I’ll be honest: I was terrified. The imposter syndrome was loud. But I also knew that my being invited to speak meant the work I’ve been doing, asking questions, being honest about limitations, and trying to walk the talk, had been noticed.

And that mattered.

From the moment I walked in, the atmosphere was alive with intention. And although the conversations can be complex, especially when discussing what ethical practices really mean, there was so much kindness, generosity, and respect in the room.

What struck me most throughout the day was how much of the meaningful change in our industry seems to come from within, from business owners, companies and makers themselves, rather than being customer-driven. During the Sustainability in Manufacturing panel, it became clear that many jewellery businesses have been quietly making thoughtful, sustainable choices for years, without shouting about it. And interestingly, very few jewellers seem to question these suppliers beyond the price. That surprised me. I’m always asking (and re-asking) questions, about traceability, prob about recycled, carbon emissions to name but a few because I believe we all have a responsibility to dig deeper and if we repeatedy ask the questions, action might be taken.

The panel I was on was around Responsible Marketing and Grennwashing. One thing I’ve learned: just because a word means something to you doesn’t mean it means the same thing to someone else or that it is fully undertood by your customer. "Sustainable" and "ethical" are not interchangeable or universally understood and have multiple meanings. If you say you use recycled gold or fairtrade gold for example, that alone doesn’t make your business sustainable or ethical. It’s about the why, the how, the business practices that surround those choices, your policies to back your claims up? I was called “ethical” during the panel and had to gently challenge that. I don’t use that word to describe myself or my business, it’s too loaded, too personal, and too undefined within the trade. I try to work ethically, yes, 100% but I believe we need to question these labels more often, not less. And ask ourselves is this truly ethical. I feel its a promblematic word for our industry and so lean into eco conscious, for example, and provide more details to help give more clarity.

Every single speaker brought something inspiring. Cristina Villegas’ spoke to use via video call and offered a bright look at the future of gemstones and the work she has been involved in. Toby Pomeroy’s work on eliminating mercury in artisan gold mining was powerful and hopeful. Joanna Hardy’s reflections from her time at gem mines added humanity and weight to the conversation. Greg Valerio MBE reminded us of gold’s potential to be a force for peace, not harm.

I was also really moved by the discussion around carbon emissions. It’s something I’m still learning about. It made me think about my own studio, the small but important impact of saw blades, emery paper aside from just the larger items. Charlie Cotton’s insight on where independents can focus was grounding. Sometimes the overwhelm makes it hard to act, but simplifying is a good place to start.

And the final session, on communications and marketing, even being on the panel, left me with questions to keep turning over: how can we share why we do things in a way that is clear, honest, and avoids greenwashing? How can we better communicate nuance?

After the official sessions, we moved into networking, and honestly I had conversations around a small table that will stay with me. Quiet admissions, shared visions, connections that I hope will continue to grow.

Being a micro business in a room like that matters. We are small, but we are mighty. We’re often held to higher standards by you our customers than the big players are, and we can lead by example in ways that might just help shift the industry. If you're a small jeweller reading this: your voice is needed.

I’ll keep attending, asking questions, and listening, starting with the upcoming event on the 23rd June at the Goldsmiths' Centre - Creative Links: Ethical Gold – Exploring Sourcing Options. If you’ve never attended an event at Goldsmiths' Center before, I’d encourage you to join this one. These conversations deeply matter.

And sometimes, they change everything.

The Shape of the Day: Panels & Speakers

Opening remarks from Anna Loucah.

Session One – Setting the Scene: Bright Futures for Responsible Materials

Cristina Villegas, Nature’s Wealth – via video link
Toby Pomeroy – pre-recorded presentation on eliminating mercury in gold mining
Joanna Hardy – personal reflections from visiting gem mines
Greg Valerio MBE – PeaceGold: A fresh look at the power of gold

Session Two – Carbon Emissions Panel & Q&A Moderated by Susi Smither Panellists:

Charlie Cotton - Founder ecollective
Chris Hocknell - Director of Eight Versa and Natural Carbon Solutions
Saskia Shutt - Jewellery designer and Fair Luxury member
Jos Skeates - Founder EC One, Trustee of the Goldsmiths' Centre

Session Three – Sustainability in Manufacturing Panel & Q&A Moderated by Charlotte Dew Panellists:

Alex Monroe - Founder of Alex Monroe Jeweller, Trustee of the Goldsmiths' Centre
Aastha Sethi - Head of sustainability at Boodles
Kerry Saunders - Operations director at Domino Jewellery/Weston Beamor
Gary Wroe - Managing Director Hockley Mint Ltd